the not serious Pen Naish & Nicholas Brown

For this chat, Pete and I had the distinct pleasure of sitting across the table from wine folk Pen Naish and Nicholas Brown of Black Estate.

The monochrome cool of black and white might underpin this winery but colour oozes from every corner.

Neither of these two started out destined for a job in wine but, like most vignerons in Aotearoa, wine found them.

When Pen’s Dad stood in a paddock in North Canterbury, the vibes felt right and a deep, honest discussion ensued around establishing a vineyard, winery and, as it happens, a restaurant.

Ambitious? Yes. Achievable? Clearly.

A considered black building, designed by architect Richard Naish – also a relative - stands stark on the rolling hills of a wine region known for being sometimes just a bit tricky. It acts as an anchor and it’s fair to say this whanau are now well rooted to this special spot.

Kids were raised here. Summers have been spent with secateurs in one hand and a barbecue tong in the other. Steve, the chocolate Labrador guards and greets all who come there.

It’s a blissful scene indeed but don’t be fooled. This is no accident.

These guys work their arses off and as certified organic growers and makers, their lives are spent managing sites that a lesser grower might politely decline.

But this is where the rubber hits the road. Nicholas is an experimenter at heart and I suspect digs a challenge. Pen is razor-sharp and grounded. Together they generate a surge of energy that can be felt in the wines they make and the hospitality that is offered when you’re parked up at the Black Estate restaurant – perhaps indulging in truffles sourced from the neighbour Jax at Kings Truffles but definitely always local produce.

There was discussion mid chats of Pete and I lobbying for a second recording on site at Black Estate that just happens to coincide with truffle season. Logistics pending. Budget negotiations ongoing. Stand by…

Of course we all know I’d spend most of my time cuddling the truffle dogs but that’s just the sort of crazy dog person I am but I tell you what, for a region known for it’s foraging parties and incredible organic produce, being parked up at Black Estate, eating some nosh, patting a dog and pushing a glass of earthy, supple Pinot Noir into my face sure does sound like a good idea for a work trip!

So, shave a little perigord truffle on your pasta, pour yourself a delightful drink of something clean and fresh from north of Chch, this is the not serious Pen Naish and Nicholas Brown chat.

CHAT FACTS

• what we were drinking

  Ansgar Clüsserath Trittenheimer Riesling Kabinett 2022 — Mosel, Germany
  
  ByTheBottle notes:
  One to savour rather than guzzle. But honestly, good luck with that. It’s so delicious - all green apples, lime pith, white flowers and honey on the nose. Racy freshness in the mouth is balanced with a beautifully textured coating of sweetness. Fruit comes from the Apotheke vineyard, an extremely steep slope in the village of Trittenheimer. 

  The Ansgar Clüsserath estate is in the Mosel, one of Germany’s most revered wine regions. Vines hug the steep, slate slopes along the many bends of the Mosel River. Eva Clüsserath produces pure, elegant Rieslings from vines of up to 100 years old. With long ferments in traditional, large foudre, every drop of wine expresses the time, care and passion Eva and her family have for their place.

  1L antipodes still water
  Eighthirty Coffee & bites from Cazador Deli

When we chatted to Pen and Nicholas from Black Estate we actually slugged a delicious bottle of German Riesling that Pen plucked from the shelves of the eye candy on offer in By The Bottle. It just so happens that Pen and Nicholas make a mean Riesling too — but it’s the splendidly refreshing Pét-Nat that I’d like to draw your attention to. Get your sandwich grabbers on a bottle, folks. Trust me, on those long Summer days when you’re coming off that dopamine high of mowing the lawns, nothing says ‘you’ve earned it’ like a glass of crisp, fizzy goodness of Black Estate Pét-Nat Damsteep. Go on - order a bottle.
Find Pen & Nicholas @theblackestate

Artwork by Wayne Youle

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